An Evening in Udaipur

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Lawrence and I set off to find Udaipur's local spice and vegetable market in the late afternoon. From the Jagdish temple, which is a major landmark in the old city, we headed to the right, down tiny winding streets. We found a section of fabric shops, then metal workers--including jewelry stores and tiny jewelry manufacturing shops, shops selling metal cooking supplies and small shops making brass containers.

We watched a man pound a pattern around the opening of a brass pot: each good bang of his hammer made one shiny spot. His foot held the pot in place and he turned it with one hand while pounding with the other. Another shop a couple of doors down shaped the containers in a hot fire built in a very small workroom.

Down one tiny alley, a three wheeled auto-rickshaw--motor-driven, not pedaled--made its way to a larger street. The passage was so narrow that we had to step up off the street into a shop to make way. The vehicle cleared the parked motorcycles and bicycles by half an inch.

I have yet to see an actual collision, but near-misses seem to occur several times minute during our exciting rides through town. That's only my perspective though, which cannot be the same as all these many people making their way through town. Looking at the scrapes on the sides of some of these vehicles, I can see that it doesn't always work.

We took a steep flight of stairs to a Vishnu temple to look inside. Men were busily decorating with branches of greenery. The temple priest invited us back for a special ceremony (for the spring season, as we understand it) that same evening at 7:00 p.m.

We decided to return for the ceremony, but had to check in with Jack, Barbara and Malagar at the appointed time. We walked quickly back to the hotel, I changed out of t-shirt and jeans and into the sari that Sita and her daughters gave to me in Todgarh, and we hurried back to the temple.

I don't think I got my sari on quite right--I'd only worn it once for the wedding in the village of Todgarh only the day before, and it had taken three experts to get me dressed! But it was good for blending in, and there were several approving comments from women in the temple as well as the temple priest. I'm glad I did it, though I felt terribly conspicuous.

Lawrence was invited to come right up to the altar to take photos, alongside the official photographer/videographer. There were several musicians and everyone sang. The usual Hindu rites were performed: fire and incense circled the altar in the priest's hands, flowers thrown, water sprinkled.

This ceremony also included some Holi "playing" -- colored powders thrown liberally by hand onto the cloth backdrop behind the main shrine, and onto the greenery-decorated swinging shrine outside of it. Lawrence was also given some hot pink powder, on his forehead, and one cheek, falling onto his white shirt. He looked wonderfully celebratory! Most people just got dots on their foreheads, including me.

The last part we stayed for was dancing. Two. . .guys?? Dressed in flashy saris, twirling around with skirts swirling. Every so often the priest would hold up some money for them. . .We need to do some research on this!

We said our goodbyes and jumped into an auto-rickshaw and were whisked into another world--dinner with Jack and Barbara on the opposite side of the lake at an elegant waterfront restaurant, complete with an incredible view of the palace, illuminated in the night.

The City Palace Complex has several buildings within its huge old walls: one of the maharajas' original palaces, the oldest part constructed in the 1650s; a luxury hotel where one can spend obscene amounts of money to spend the night in style; the current private residence of the descendants of the last royal ruler of Udaipur (it looked very swank from our side of the fence); tourist shops; offices for the royal family's charitable foundation; and an elementary school for local children.

Two musicians provided traditional music at the restaurant. Between sets, Lawrence spoke with the younger man, who introduced the other musician as his grandfather, and told us where the music college he attends is located. We visited that music school the next day, and returned for a photo shoot the following Monday.. . .This is a good example of how we work our way around a town.

It took us at least four days to make it to the spice market. We would start out for it but always get sidetracked. We were going to go back again this evening, but missed it somehow. I hope we'll find it again. Wait til you see the photos!

We know our way around this section of the old city pretty well by now, having been here almost a week. Outside the old city walls is a different world. A young man we talked with last night grew up here, and said to us, "This is heaven!"

Lawrence and I agree. We have felt comfortable, safe and welcome in every place we have been in India. Everyone is friendly, kind, and interested in interacting with foreigners. We are routinely asked what country we are from, and have a 100% approval rating! Many favorable comments for President Obama, too.

For all the seeming chaos in the cities, the people--as well as the cows, dogs, camels, goats, and elephants--are all incredibly mellow. The subject of traffic deserves a post of its own. I would love to make a little video to go with it. Like an unending roller coaster ride there at any time for you to come out and play.

Almost everyone is willing to have their photo taken, though less so in the Muslim parts of town. Most are happy simply to see their photo on the back of the camera. You can imagine how much Lawrence loves this--he is definitely in heaven.